|
Buyers Guide
106 AC 3000ME's were built in total, 76 by AC Cars
in Thames Ditton and 30 by AC Scotland. Chassis numbers start at
104, yet 105 and 107 were never used. The last Thames Ditton car
was 182 and the last car of all was 212. Some have been used to
make special concept cars.
Most of the Thames Ditton cars have black bonnet
air intakes, while most of the Scottish cars have the air intakes
painted the same colour as the car. (But not all) Some people think
that the Thames Ditton cars are best but they are all very similar,
in fact it is more likley that each car made was slightly different
than the others which is always the way with hand built cars.
Out of the Thames Ditton cars 17 were fitted with
a turbo by Robin Rew at Silverstone. You can always tell a turbo
as it only has one tail pipe, however many of the Turbo's have been
removed.
The bodywork is fibreglass that is not prone to problems
but surface cracks and small paint bubbles can sometimes be seen.
The paint bubbles is not serious but normally a problem with the
undercoat of the cellulose paint. The cars were undercoated, left
to dry and then top coated the following day, the bubbles are caused
by the top coat being applied with dampness in the air from the
overnight wait..

The Interior comes was cloth as standard but leather
seats were an optional extra. Check the outer edge of the seat cushions
as they can wear due to friction when the driver gets in and out
of the cockpit. The carpets wear and rot but a replacement set is
available and not a major problem to fit. Always check under the
carpets as the seal between the body and chassis often slightly
leaks and water sits in the foot well soaking the foam underlay.
This can cause serious rust. especially behind and under the seats.
Some cars have been fully rebuilt mainly due to chassis
rust problems. Some of these cars have been fitted with a stainless
steel chassis, (6 were made) and some have galvernised subframes
fitted.
The
standard chassis is made of steel and is in 3 main parts. A front
sub-frame, a centre tub and a rear sub-frame. If the car has been
used in the wet, check for corrosion which can be bad. The places
to look are under the carpets behind the seats, sub-frame mounting
points and just below the sills. The main parts were made from flat
sheet and tubing but they were simply bolted together and these
areas can suffer. Check the front subframe where the anchor points
are for the lower wishbones. Just under the sill on each side is
a trim which has a rubber seal above it. It was designed to keep
water and salt out but had the opposite effect in not letting it
dry away. All the chassis was sprayed with was a black etching paint
that AC thought would last for ever but the fact is it drops off
in large flakes. Modern rust treatment were not available in the
70's so expect some rust. If you cannot remove the sill seal to
check for rust, (Many are removed for drainage) push a flat rule
in parallel to the ground between the top of the seal and the sill,
if the rule only goes in a short distance and you hit something
solid, its the outer part of the chassis, if it goes in 2 inches
then you may well have gone through the rusted outer chassis to
the inner chassis so there is severe rust problems.
The fuel tank and its mounting can also suffer from
rust but many tanks have been replaced with stainless steel or galvanized
ones.
The engine is a standard Ford Essex V6 3.0ltr as
fitted to Capri of the time but as the engine was no longer fitted
in the Capri after 1981 the engine was imported from Ford South
Africa. The engine is turned through 90degrees so it fits transversely
across the car just behind the driver in a mid-engine configuration.
ME refers to Mid-Engine. The standard engine runs on LEADED fuel.
The gearbox has an AC alloy case fitted with Hewland
gears and it sits under and behind the engine replacing the V6 sump.
The engine has its own sump in this case and the gearbox has its
own oil sump and dipstick which is also the gearbox filler. The
drive from the engine is via a special Triplex (3 row) renold chain.
The gear change seems to be a week spot with a Ferrari type chrome
gate. If the bushes in the gear linkage are worn you may have to
lift the lever to change gear. This is an easy fix. On higher mileage
cars expect to renew some bearings, gears and even the crown wheel
and pinion.
The wheels should be Wolfrace slotted alloys and
replacements are very difficult to find so check for damage. The
chrome wheel nuts always seem to be rusty.
Most parts are available one way or another but unlike
a kit car that uses parts from production cars the AC 3000ME uses
several special factory made parts that can be rather expensive.
The AC 3000ME will always be a rare car, most people
have never even seen one. Its looks are ageless and its terrific
to drive. Where ever you stop you will be approached by casual onlookers
unable to restrain their curiosity, and even worse some will think
its a kit car. The car is useable and as most were only ever bought
as second cars, they have been kept in great condition. For a sports
car there is not much that can beat it for boot space, but remember
its a 1970's design and compared to other 70's cars it was way ahead
of its time. It even has electric windows that are standard on almost
everything these days but was a great luxury in the 70's. Several
owners have 2 or even 3 and many owners have had several different
ones in their time.
What should you pay?
Expect to pay £7000 to £8000 for reasonable
car, a real mint one as high as £15000 to £20000 and
one in very poor condition that need a rebuild about £5000
but lets make one thing very clear they are not that easy to find
and are snapped up rather quickly. They will normally be worth the
same or a bit more than you paid and if you spend a bit of time
keeping your car right you may well be suprised.
|