3000ME HANDBRAKE OVERHAUL

My 3000ME failed its 2006 MOT on handbrake efficiency, recording 14% of the footbrakes. The MOT garage informed me that with the computerised system the MOT requires a handbrake efficiency of 25% of the foot brakes. Some work was clearly in order. A new handbrake cable had been fitted a year or so ago. If the cable is in poor condition it should be replaced.

The handbrake callipers are pivoted on the bottom of the main rear callipers. A quick check showed that the inboard calliper on each side was seized solid. The freeing off process began with application of some penetrating oil to the pivots (keep it off the brake pads!), followed by bashing the inboard callipers in and out with a hammer until they started moving. Each calliper was then removed from the upright by removing the ‘R’ clip and pin holding the handbrake cable to its lever and undoing the two large bolts holding them to the inside of the upright (it might just be possible to do the job with the callipers attached to the uprights). More oil was squirted into the pivots and left overnight to penetrate. The handbrake pads were then removed and a Mole wrench clamped on the calliper, which gave enough leverage to start working the calliper in and out until eventually it started moving freely.

The position of the pads is adjusted by screwing in or out the adjustor on the end of the threaded rod on the inside of each unit. A hook spring prevents the adjustor from slackening off. Theoretically it forms a self-adjusting system, but in practice needs to be adjusted manually. After fitting new pads (they are held in by a spring on each side) the hook spring should be lifted clear of the adjustor with a small screwdriver and the adjustor slackened right off, and then tightened up until the pads are just clear of the disc on each side. The calliper can then be refitted to the upright and the adjustor reset as necessary. There is just sufficient clearance to do this with the calliper bolted onto the upright, with a small Mole wrench clamped onto the adjustor. The handbrake can then be applied and released a few times and the adjustors reset again; this operation will probably have to be repeated several times to centre the cable. The result should be that the movement on the handbrake lever from ‘off’ to ‘on’ is a minimum, and the pads grip the discs firmly. Spray the handbrake ratchet with WD40 to finish the job. While you are looking at the brakes it is well worth while removing the main brake pads, cleaning off any corrosion from them, the slots in the calliper where they fit and their retaining pins.

All the brake pipes on the 3000ME are made from kunifer except the link pipe between the rear calliper halves, which is steel. Next time you bleed the brakes, remove this and replace it with a new copper or kunifer one before it lets you down. Mine were made up by my favourite hose company, BGC in Wisbech, using the originals as patterns.